Beer is generally thought to be a man’s drink. Emma Mahony agreed, until she tried the new ales that brewers are creating specifically for women
Janet Street-Porter is prising off her purple high heels, seated at a table groaning with new “female-friendly” beers. “I hate everything about beer culture,” she carps.
“I hate the smell of beer, I hate men’s beer guts, I hate all the crap that goes with beer.” She pauses only to put on her trainers and summon new vitriol. “You know, one in four pubs is closing and they deserve to close because they are bloody crap!”
Right ho, Janet. The balanced discussion on why British women tend not to drink beer has got off to a lairy start. I can’t help thinking that if this were a group of Frenchwomen discussing wine, the conversation might be a little more elevated. But it certainly confirms that Project Eve, a new campaign to encourage more women to give beer a try, has some way to go: Street-Porter is not alone in her antipathy to the hop.
Only 13 per cent of British women choose beer over other drinks, compared with 40 per cent on the Continent.
This is the attitude that Kristy McCready, MD of BitterSweet Partnership, wants to change with the multimillion-pound campaign. It is not about encouraging a return to the ladette culture of the 1990s, but an attempt to help beer to shake off its overwhelmingly male image.
“We are encouraging women to have a choice,” she says. “We want to listen to women about what they want, get behind what they want and then speak to the licensed trade. We hope to change the landscape of beer.”
So what are they up against? Well, for a start there’s the big one: nearly 50 per cent of women polled for the initiative complained that drinking beer would make them put on weight. Add to this the more than 40 per cent who say the advertising is unappealing, and the third who see drinking beer as “manly” and you’ve got substantial opposition before anyone has even got on to taste.
The BitterSweet Partnership counters the weight claim with a number of studies, including “The relation between drinking pattern and body mass index and waist and hip circumference” (Tolstrup et al, 2005), which suggests that if you are drinking beer moderately every day you are less likely to suffer from obesity and will be slimmer than “someone whose consumption pattern is to only binge occasionally”.
The study shows that the risk of obesity is almost 30 per cent lower for those consuming over seven days per week as opposed to two to four days.
As to the manly accusation, the chef and restaurateur Allegra McEvedy, co-founder of the healthy fast-food chain Leon, prefers the word “ballsy” and is keen that women should overcome their prejudices to sample the great tastes of different beers.
McEvedy, a keen drinker of Guinness, feels very comfortable holding a pint. “The stereotypes around beer annoy me and get my back up. It is a fantastically crafted drink, but the most important aspect of it is taste and environment. I like to drink Sagres lager, London Pride, Guinness in winter, or Doom Bar beer in Rock in Cornwall. All of these have wonderful flavours — just like a glass of wine.”
McEvedy is also a keen advocate of using beer in cooking. “For example, just try putting a bottle of London Pride into a casserole, or a porter beer chucked into boeuf bourguignon at the beginning,” she says. Her interest today is in some of the “female-friendly” beers being tasted by the panel, beers that the industry will be rolling out in tasting sessions across the country over the summer.
I am sorry to say that I found the beers unpalatable. I hope that the clear beer, developed by Coors as a first for the UK market and as yet un-named, never sees the light of day for the sake of all those street cleaners in town centres on Sunday mornings. Flavoured with “dragon fruit and green tea”, it looked like lemonade and tasted like a sickly alcopop.
Equally gassy and difficult to drink was the “beer cocktail with crème de peche and cranberry juice”, and the Kasteel Cru Rose was a disappointing alternative to any middle-of-the-road rosé wine. Just as I was ready to leave unconvinced, hope sprang in the form of Harry’s Beer, made by Harriet Easton, 20, a student at Newcastle University, who has created a new beer with a citrus twist specifically for women.
“When I was going out at 16 or 17 I used to drink alcopops, but they made me feel sick because of the sugar. So I switched to lagers.” One day, hanging around in a bar waiting to be served, she noticed that none of the beer line-up was aimed at women. So she decided to do something about it and gathering a team of six. “I found a designer, financial person, sales, etc, by selling equity for shares,” she says.
As you may expect, there was no shortage of market testers at university, and in August last year the first bottles made it into local Midland supermarkets. “That month, we outsold Newcastle Brown Ale, so we knew we were on to something,” Easton says. “I thought it would take on the 18 to 24-year-old market, so my biggest surprise is that it has been a hit with the older generation, too.”
Easton was most concerned that the beer would be as free as possible from chemicals. “The low ABV [4 per cent] of my beer is a good alternative to high-ABV, chemical-ridden drinks.” What she wasn’t expecting was to register the drink as healthy. “When I registered my copyright and trademarks, I was fascinated to discover that beer was not in the ‘alcoholic drinks’ section, but in the ‘health drinks and cordial’ part. The principle is that good, pure ale is a great social drink that in moderate measures can be beneficial to health and help to relieve stress levels.” With sales for March outnumbering sales for the whole of the previous year, and talks with supermarket chain Morrisons going ahead, Easton feels confident that her student days will not end in unemployment.
Indeed, the only possible fly in the ointment may come from an unexpected source. Delegates at the National Union of Students annual conference in Blackpool last month voted to set a minimum price on alcohol in student unions, one of the last bastions of cheap beer.
Is Easton worried? “No. At £1.19 a bottle, my beer is classy, sophisticated and stylish,” she says.
Let’s hope that the beer can find enough equally classy and sophisticated women to agree.
Female-friendly beers coming to a bar near you
Harry’s Beer 4% ABV 330ml A golden ale brewed with Maris Otter pale malt and Cascade hops, with ssence extracted from oranges.
Kasteel Cru 5.2% ABV 330ml Kasteel Cru is a traditional Alsace bière blonde. It is fermented with champagne yeast to give a dry, sparkling finish.
Kasteel Cru Rose 5% ABV 330ml Brewed in Alsace using champagne yeast with essence of elderberry and elderflower.
Blue Moon 5.4% ABV 355ml This Belgian-style wheat beer is unfiltered to give more depth of flavour.The process also creates a cloudy appearance.It is best when served with a slice of orange to bring out the fruit flavour.
Coors Light 4.5% ABV 330ml Brewed to taste light, using a Rocky Mountain recipe and special brewing process.
* Have your say
"Easton was most concerned that the beer would be as free as possible from chemicals. “The low ABV [4 per cent] of my beer is a good alternative to high-ABV, chemical-ridden drinks.”"
I was getting excited about trying a chemical-free beer, but then I realized that such a thing is an impossibility!
Ian, Bluffton, United States
Having tasted Harry's Beer, and managed to maintain my waistline, I would thoroughly recommend it to anyone. She's an inspiration to all young women and I wish her all the success in the future.
Victoria Jones, Newcastle,
I have to say being a cider drinker I have no problem drinking out of a pint glass in a pub, I do like fruit beers as an alternative, I won't though drink any drink that is green tea flavoured unless it is actually green tea...feminine beer sounds horrid and somehow wrong...
Emma, Cambridge,
For the same reason they don't eat Yorkie...It's not for girls!
Brian, Oxford,
If taste is one of the main factors putting women off, why not just drink Belgian fruit beers? Fruili is available in many more mainstream pubs, as well as more specialist pubs like the Dovetail in Clerkenwell. Why does a "beer cocktail" need to be invented instead?
Siobhan, Hackney, London,
A cold Blue Moon is very refreshing on a hot day. I tend to like witbieren and other less "hoppy" beers, but quite a few of my women friends love Guinness (which tastes like liquified tree bark to me). The 'beer is not a ladylike drink' mentality is rare in the German-settled American Midwest.
Mmm, beer., Cincinnati, USA
Don't want women to get a taste for beer. The pub is still one of the few places left where you can escape from the likes of Janet Street Porter.
Chris West, Córdoba, Spain
I love a good pint of Guiness. There are times when only a Guiness would do. I am sure it has been a marketing gimmick to promote beer as a 'guy's drink'. And now to undo that, they are coming up with 'feminine' versions of the drink to please the ladies. So what's next? A 'a guy-friendly wine'?
Thara Visvanathan, Chennai, India
Street-Porter. Sounds like an Olde-English surname for one who sells beer on the streets.
digby snetteron, timbuktu,
Korean women will choose to drink beer almost as much as men. Of course its a tasteless fizzy lager - although quite strong, but nethertheless it is not seen as just a male orientated drink. Clearly doesn't effect their waistlines either!
Tim, Seoul, Korea
I avoid beer unless it's a boiling hot day and I am hungry as it makes me feel bloated and horrible. It is also calorie dense, 200cals a pint. I also do not like the taste. If I do have a beer, it's a fruit beer and if that is not available I'll have a pear cider (not Magner's!) I stick to g&t's.
Ashlee, London,
I'm normaly a wine drinker but there are occasions where nothing beats a nice glass or even bottle of beer. Likewise I sometimes go to the football stadium in Frankfurt and although I would never dream of drinking apple wine (cider) at home, when I'm at the football, I love it.
Caterine, Hofheim, Germany
As a 19 year old ''young woman'' I would never choose beer when i'm out socialising, it would make me feel very bloated which isn't the feeling you want when you want to have a good time. The taste is a little heavy for my liking. I would much prefer vodka and a light mixer such as Lime or Diet Coke
Judith, Belfast, Northern Ireland
This is ridiculous. I love a pint of real ale and have never gotten weird looks over it. I don't down them every day, maybe one or two on a weekend, and I still manage to stay trim and healthy. Beer doesn't make you fat - eating more calories than you burn off makes you fat.
Erika, Shropshire,
I do not drink beer However, when l lived in Germany there was a wonderful beer based drink Berliner weiss Beer served in a huge glass ( a brandy glass ?) therefore aesthetically pleasing with a strawberry or raspberry shot in the base and served with a straw It was refreshing & feminine
carole cooper, norwich norfolk, UK
Adam, as a successful weight-loser, I can tell you that the view that excercise is a solution to excess weight is misguided. It takes one hour on a rowing machine to offset one low-calorie meal. Weight control is more than 90% about controlling calorie input, rather than expenditure.
Chris, London, UK
While I do drink beer, I do not like drinking pints, I find the glasses unwieldy & inelegant, & most halves aren't any better.
Why can't more pubs serve beer in stemmed third glasses? This is a far more sensible amount in terms of volume, & a much more elegant vessel
Sophie CB, London,
Actually, I just don't like it. And it's expensive. Go ahead, guys - I'll stick with the lime soda.
Helen, Cheltenham, Glos.
What a horrible, horrible generalisation.
Tony, Islington, London, UK
So women will drink beer if you change the colour, taste, sweetness and packaging so that it is indistinguishable from an alcopop. And that's considered a victory? Sounds more like drenching broccoli in golden syrup, frying it in batter and then boasting about how your kids now "love vegetables"!
Claire, London,
Beer doesn't make you fat Tom. Lack of activity makes you fat. If people like yourself and the ever endearing Janet Street Porter don't like it then fine. Pub landlords, keep cultivating those atmospheres that these people seem to hate.
Adam, London,
As a woman who has been drinking beer (in pints) for nearly 30 years I am bemused by the introduction of 'female friendly' beers. What's wrong with women drinking the beers that are already out there? How many have ever tried it?Perhaps the brewers could tempt more women by offering a discount!
Sarah Scott, Cobham,
Tom Welsh - rubbish.I like my bitter and at 62 weigh 11st11lbs,about 7lb less than when I married at 21. Reason? Exercise,its quite simple.Wine will make you fat,if you don't burn it off! My wife is great to take to a pub(shame there are none here) because she loves bitter too.
Brian Wildey, Fleurance, France
Phil are you presuming to tell your gf what she can drink? I know it's just a one liner comment across the internet, but it makes you sound really patronising.
George, London, England
These days a lot of women are drinking far more wine than is good for them. Learning to enjoy a great real ale (eg. Coniston Bluebird) would be beneficial for both physical and mental health.
Clare Thompson, Lancaster,
In Belgium women drink beer a lot, but our beers are smaller in volume and served in attractive glass chalices. The men also don't measure a good night out in terms of how many pints of beer they drink - beer is just not thought of in that way.
David, Gent, Belgium
The reason women won't drink beer is not just because of taste but mainly because of perception. I will happily drink an Export at home but wouldn't dream of doing so in bar - v.unladylike.
As for adding peach / green tea to make it palatable... gender sterotyping is alive and well at Coors then
Sue, London,
I lived in Belgium for 3 years. It's perfectly normal for Belgian women to drink beer, it's a strange (British) idea that one drink is only for one sex. It's not even as if (British) beer has a particularly high alcohol content
M Smith, Reading, UK
Four words. Beer Makes You Fat.
Tom Welsh, Basingstoke,
Traditional English beer is bitter - it has always been that way due to natural preservatives added (thank-you UK brewers). "Enjoying" this flavour requires commitment, time and considerable practice. But it is worth it Ms S-P.Now then,bad pubs,you have a valid point,you need to be more selective.
steveh, Halesworth, Suffolk, England
I dont fancy my Girlfriend getting a beer belly!! She can stick to the Cosmopolitans
Phil, Preston, United Kingdom
I find this just as patronising as 'a glass of dry white wine for the little lady'. Women, break your chains - go to a good real ale pub like the Fat Cat in Norwich or Market Porter in Borough Market, and try different styles till you find what you like. Not what a marketer wants you to drink!
ned ludd, Norwich,
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